Sarajevo

*my apologies in advance for this long post

One of my favorite aspects of the Bridge Year Program for Serbia is the opportunity to travel to other Balkan countries. Our first excursion beyond Serbian borders was to Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina from October 20-23. The six of us (as well as our driver, Željko) crammed ourselves into a mini van and spent six hours en route to Sarajevo. When we finally drove down into the valley that nests the city, I could immediately sense a different atmosphere than that in Novi Sad. I couldn’t exactly put my finger on it, but I was excited to use the next couple of days to explore the city and to discover the difference.

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Day 1 (really just a night)

We started the trip off with a bang! Ceca brought us to this restaurant called Avilja with décor that was essentially an outdoor garden indoors: it was beautiful. The food, the people, and most especially the atmosphere were all fantastic. Throughout the evening, there were two men playing traditional Bosnian music that eventually led to diners clapping, singing, and dancing (sometimes on tables). The joy and the merriment in Avilja were clearly a celebration of life and culture and the type of welcome that any foreigner would be lucky to experience.

Day 2

Truly, a day for a tourist. The day’s festivities began with a city tour by foot led by local tour guide Amir –who was friendly, entertaining, and informative. He showed us the religious buildings (mosque, cathedral, Orthodox church, synagogue), the city’s fountain (drink from it, and you come back to Sarajevo), the historic quarter of the city with the best places to eat ćevapi (Baščaršija), the intersection where Gavrilo Princip assassinated Franz Ferdinand (appel quay), the cemetery from the war, among other historical and political buildings.


BYP Serbia was mad for the mosque. We even got to watch and listen to a traditional prayer calling the following day.



Looking forward to going back to Sarajevo!




street in Baščaršija




primarily Muslim cemetary that was serene and beautiful

The tour ended in front of Sarajevo’s university where we started the second half of our jam-packed day: discussions. The first discussion was with one of the university’s professors named Ugo who spoke with us about Bosnia’s cultural and political history over the past two decades (ethnic cleansing, discrimination, state and nation disputes, lack of central government). The second discussion was with a local NGO that works towards improving post-war Bosnia through trainings and other projects, presenting another opportunity to hear a different perspective about Bosnia and its past two decades. Due to my lack of understanding of the war, these discussions were hard to follow at times. However, both made it clear that what happened to Bosnia in the ‘90s has greatly influenced the tensions and discriminations that exist there today. It was definitely something to think about while we had dinner at Inat Kuća afterwards. Post supper, we were free to do what we wanted. All of us met up with Yentli’s Bosnian friend Sanda and her friends at a café –after wandering the city aimlessly– and just hung out. It was cool to spend time with people our age and to experience the café culture somewhere besides Novi Sad.

Day 3

The first half of this day was spent going to museums that focused on the Siege of Sarajevo in the ‘90s. We visited the tunnel that was used during the war to smuggle weapons, food, and resources into and out of the city, then we visited a museum with an exhibition about the siege. There were artifacts and vivid photographs that made the war seem so surreal. There were times I just couldn’t believe that this was what happened, especially during my lifetime. Visiting these museums was so enlightening and helped me grasp an understanding of the war and the consequences that Bosnians still deal with today. 

There were some pretty cramped quarters
in the 1.6m wide 800m long tunnel. I can't even
imagine how they managed during the war.

Many posters like this one implied that
Bosnia needing aid was an understatement.

The rest of the day was free, which only meant one thing: shopping! Between the hand crafted goods in the Baščaršija and the products sold at the bazaar, I think it’s safe to say that I left Sarajevo with some good buys. After dinner, we had hot chocolate and desert with Sanda and asked her about her memories of Sarajevo during wartime. There were few she remembered (like her father using the tunnel we had seen earlier that day), but what she had to say was riveting.

Day 4

Unfortunately, we had to say goodbye to Sarajevo. Of course we did not do so without trying some of Sarajevo’s pita and buying some baklava. Despite our short amount of time spent in Sarajevo, it was such a gnarly trip! I hated to say “do viđenja Sarajevo!” but I did look forward to coming home.

What a last impression to have of Sarajevo!

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Considering Sarajevo’s history, two full days were barely enough to grasp an entire feel for the city. However, from what I did have the chance to experience, I think I can determine what it is about Sarajevo that made me immediately sense the difference between it and Novi Sad. Firstly and more obvious, Sarajevo is definitely a tourist’s city –numerous tour groups, countless tourist shops, etc. Secondly –after delving deeper into the past of the city, Sarajevo is still suffering the consequences of the war. Besides the physical scars on buildings and sidewalks left behind by the heavy artillery, there are emotional scars that stifle the progress of Sarajevo (and Bosnia in the bigger picture) either because they are too painful to deal with or because people outright choose to ignore them. Thirdly, Novi Sad has become my home. Throughout the entire trip I kept wondering “What if we were placed in Sarajevo as opposed to Novi Sad or Niš?” I can’t even imagine that situation, regardless of how it would’ve turned out, because currently my roots are in Serbia. It’s funny how a minor international excursion within a major international excursion has made me realize this. Nevertheless, Sarajevo will definitely be a trip to remember.

To Najlon we go

It all started with a tuba…a couple weeks ago when Florian and Vincent from my Serbian class were describing their weekend, Florian mentioned that they went to the Najlon Flea Market and bought a tuba for ninety Euros. I was hooked from that moment and knew that I would have to make a trip to Najlon at some point during my time in Novi Sad. That point was this past Saturday when Tucker and I ventured to the flea market in the hopes of finding some goodies of our own.

Tucker and I met up at 6am that day to get the early start that we were advised to get. We got on a bus, and after about a twenty-five minute ride, we reached our destination. Unfortunately, our “early bird gets the worm” mentality did not work out in our favor, for the majority of the vendors had not even set up their stations yet. Some were still asleep in their cars, as others looked for a quick bite or talked to each other. As we waited for the market to come to life (from the buyer’s perspective), Tucker and I found a small café to help pass the time. 

By 7, there was daylight and a significant difference in the amount of products on display. It was time to get out there and haggle! There was so much variety: clothing, shoes, toilet seats, books, tools, shoelaces, mint-condition food and bathroom items (although I’m not quite sure how vendors got their hands on those things), etc. After a few laps around the flea market, we both knew what we wanted. I wanted an old-school film camera and Tucker wanted a Yugoslavia military pin for his friend’s dad and any interesting book worth his dinar.

We were both able to find what we were looking for, but Tucker was the true victor of the day since he actually purchased something –and not at the initial price, might I add.

 

Yes, these vendors are always looking to make a sale, but you could just feel it in the atmosphere that the Najlon Flea Market is more than a business…it’s a way of life. With the broken Serbian that we knew, we were able to express interest in goods and bargain, but we also had the chance to randomly converse with the people we encountered as we perused; it seemed as if there was always time to set aside the business aspect of the flea market and incorporate the social one. Although I left the flea market empty handed, I was able to take with me a piece of another lifestyle in Serbia.

Happy One Month!

It’s strange to think that one-ninth of this experience has already gone by. In a month’s time, I’ve managed to find my way around Novi Sad as I walk (or bus) from home to school, school to Jazas (my volunteer organization), and  Jazas to home; slip in between there occasional trips to cafes with friends, and it may seem as if I am ready to call myself a resident of Serbia. However, I’ve come to find that despite my familiarity with the city, there will always be a part of me that will be a visitor.  In case my mediocre (if that) Serbian skills are not obvious enough, my appearance is sure to be a dead giveaway. In case you were wondering, not that many black people are walking the streets of Novi Sad, so stares are inevitable. Consciously I am totally aware of the fact that the looks are not coming from a place of malice, but subconsciously when it seems like all eyes are on you, you can’t help but feel uncomfortable and isolated at times. In all honestly, I’m starting to get used to it, but it’s still so foreign to get noticed for something that is no big deal in the States.

Ironically “blending in” is one of the things I miss about home, but besides that, I’m surprisingly not as homesick as I thought I would be. It comes and goes in waves (especially when I talk about my family), so I don’t doubt that an extreme case of homesickness will sneak up on me when I least expect it; but, I’m not keeping my fingers crossed. Fortunately, my host family and the new friendships that I have are helping make Novi Sad feel as close to home as possible.

Of course there are still things that I have to adjust to, like the social and the work aspects of Serbian culture. For one thing, people really like to go out: walk, shop, talk in cafes, etc. From what I’ve seen, the Serbians truly enjoy being in each other’s company and seem to understand that the world has a lot more to offer when you’re out and about than when you’re sitting at home watching television or using the computer. I absolutely admire that about the social culture, but to an extent it’s an adjustment because wanting to hang out at home to just have some time for yourself does not seem that common. The one or two times I’ve turned down going out, I’ve been asked “why”, and I feel pretty silly saying, “I just want to hang out at home.”  I consider myself a rather social person, but there are just times when I want a moment to myself to think (or to not think).

On another note, the working world here in Serbia may not be what Americans would deem productive. Work isn’t necessarily about how much one gets done in the time he/she is given, and it’s not the end of the world if every task on the day’s to-do list doesn’t get completed. This hypothetical to-do list may not even be that long to begin with, resulting in a fair amount of time being spent sitting around. Admittedly, I’ve been struggling with the fact that I do a lot of “sitting around”. It’s difficult to accept that I came to Serbia to work, but due to the language barrier and to the simple fact that the amount of work is minimal; there isn’t always that much for me to do. On the other hand, I am learning that there is value in not filling every moment with work and using that time to savor just being in the company of others.

The balance between work and play here in Serbia is definitely different than it is in America, and that doesn’t necessarily make one culture better or worse than the other. In fact, it just makes me want to use these next eight months to embrace the Serbian culture to the best of my capability..., because when else would I have the chance for an experience like this?

Home sweet home

my wonderful homestay family...the Skorić's
Boško, Nikica, Milka, Jasminka, and Dunja

I'm pretty sure everyone is familiar with the saying, "home is where the heart is." When entering the bridge year program, I knew that I would have to live with a native family and adapt to their lifestyle to fully immerse myself in the country's culture; but, I never thought that I would be able to call the house of my homestay family home knowing that my heart is with my family in the States. Yet, I find myself settling in so well with my homestay family and relating to them as if they were my parents and siblings. Honestly, they basically are becoming a part of my real family and I wouldn't want it any other way. I was nervous about the whole homestay family sitchiation, but the Skorić's have made it clear through their actions and their words that I was being a worrying willy for nothing. They make me so delighted to be in Serbia, and I anticipate that we will be making many wonderful memories together for these next four months.

Who knew that unpacking would make all the difference..? It genuinely feels like home!

Some sights to see



novi sad street artist who's mad talented with some spray paint cans

one of the town centre buildings at night

the cathedral at night! so pretty!

Part of what's to come

I had another favorite day today! The power of the word "favorite" is probably going to wane by the end of these nine months because I can picture a lot of Serbian things being my favorite. My favorite things today were the American Corner and our lecture at a cafe.

If you ass-sume I like the American Corner because it reminds me of home....you're partially correct! While I fancy its presence in Novi Sad due to its nostalgic qualities, there is an entirely different reason why it is so appealing. Firstly, allow me to explain what it is in case it's not as obvious as I think it is. The American Corner is both a building and an organization dedicated to exposing Serbians to American pop culture, literature, history, art, etc. There are workshops held there twice a week where volunteers lead discussions in English for language practice purposes, as well as certain days dedicated to celebrating holidays the American way. We will be able to volunteer there at least once a week, which brings me to the bigger picture -why this place is going to be one of my favorites. I get to share my culture with the Serbians as they share theirs with me. Militica mentioned how some people come to AC simply to share their anti-American sentiments. Call me crazy, but I actually look forward to hearing and empathizing with them. Also, it also doesn't hurt that the American Corner has board games!

I imagine that the American Corner will serve as a place to meet Serbians of all ages who I could potentially befriend; this social aspect makes it all the more appealing. Speaking of social, I finally learned the "in's" and "out's" of youth culture in Serbia thanks to our little chit chat with Aleksandra at Frida cafe. She told us about bars and clubs and their protocols for socializing there. I won't bore you with the details but it sure does sound like they have fun. She definitely made it clear that bars/clubs play a huge role in youth culture and I suppose I look forward to it...if I must engage in all sorts of debauchery...keedingggg! But I am really stoked to meet Serbian people my age and make friends and actually establish a social life here. This was definitely one of the better days because it made me hopeful for what's to come outside of my service placement. I will be living here for nine months after all, so I should make the best of it, no?

Eyes wide open

This past day and a half has been the most enlightening thus far in terms of experiencing Serbian culture and understanding the five other people who with I am sharing this experience.

Yesterday started like the rest of the days will for this entire trip -with a Serbian class. I genuinely believe that each day of class will be refreshing because I will probably learn something new and applicable every time. For instance, I learned the pronouns and how to conjugate verbs (zvati se = i call myself, biti = to be) both of which are essential for forming coherent phrases in Serbian. We then were lectured at Ceca's house by a Serbian doctor who will be able to help us with our medical needs for the entirety of our time spent in Novi Sad. At the end of his lecture though he made a remark along the lines of it would be best to take care of any medical needs before going to Niš. I hadn't thought anything of his comment until Ceca clarified that he is saying this out of prejudice. So it's not even necessarily true that Novi Sad has better health practices, but Sinisa (the doc) felt it was appropriate to express his preference perhaps out of his dislike for the cultural aspects that exist in Niš. It was interesting to be minimally exposed to the prejudice that exists in Serbia and made me realize and remember that we are here to understand "the why" of Serbian culture and to help incorporate tolerance by working with our respective project placements.

My other encounter with Novi Sad locals was during this intense scavenger hunt that we had to do in order to get a better sense of Novi Sad. The tasks ranged from individual to group orientated, but my favorite had to be the third group task which required us to find someone to teach us "Osam Tamburasa", a song inspired by the city's fortress. We approached these two women sitting on a wall and used our best Serbian with them. Of course we ended up resorting to English, but I think we get an A for effort...eh maybe. Despite our broken Serbian and their broken English, they were enthusiastic about helping us. They couldn't recall the song but they were more than going out of their way to find someone who could help us. Eventually they ended up remembering the words to the song, but their willingness to assist five foreigners spoke volumes about their character and how they want to represent their country. The time I was spending with them didn't even have me concerned about completing the task, for I was simply enjoying their company.

Yesterday night was probably one of the best parts of the day because after the scavenger hunt we drove up to the fortress and had dinner there. The food was decent, the view was gorgeous, but the company and the discussion transcended them all. Charlotte, Tucker, Yentli, Jacob, myself, and even Ceca engaged in one of the most adult-like conversations I've ever had. We each expressed our views, beliefs, and opinions on love, marriage, sex, etc., and I just found it so great how we could agree, disagree, or agree to disagree on such heavy concepts that play a huge role in society -both American and Serbian (thanks to Ceca). For me, it was an opportunity to discover how my peers thought and for them to share their perspective on life. Listening to and observing the discussion, while also contributing from time to time, taught me so much about the other byp participants and Ceca. We moved the discussion to a cafe where it eventually died out, but I look forward to more instances like this one with not only them but also the people of Serbia.




...Oh and I would just like to mention that I absolutely looooove gulaš! I had it for lunch yesterday and it was just meaty and saucy and just overall greatness (especially with hleb [bread])!